Hello lovely people!
It’s been a while since I posted anything, because I’ve hardly even been in my area, let alone my own house! Sorry not sorry though, because I’ve been having far too much (expensive) fun and now you will get far too many (overindulgent) posts.
So, let’s kick it all off with a throwback to the start of July. I spent a week travelling through Berlin, Prague and Budapest using pretty much every type of public transport possible with 7 other friends – staying in hostels, seeing the sights and drinking (a bit too much of) the beer. There’s going to be a post for each city because I am very extra like that, and in the interests of chronology we’re venturing to Berlin, Germany first.
How It Went Down
After an uneventful train ride to Manchester and an overpriced airport pint, myself and my friend Ffion arrived in Schönefeld airport mid-Tuesday afternoon. We met the rest of our group who had arrived earlier that day from Warsaw and London before checking into home for 2 nights; Generator Prenzlauer Berg. We spent 2 further days in Berlin before taking a train to Prague on Thursday evening. All good in the hood.
At €27 per night, Generator was our priciest hostel, and whilst it’s difficult to compare value for money between Western and Eastern Europe, this was by far my least favourite hostel.
We were greeted by a pretty grumpy receptionist, although to be fair I can sympathise as someone who works in customer service and also has to deal with the hell that is the general public. We had one room of three and one of four, and whilst they were small, they were pretty functional (even a mirror!), so no real issues there. The real problem was the school trip.
Yup. Come on holiday only to feel like you’re back at school again.
Thanks to my almost constantly awful luck we had been allocated the very room that the teachers had decided to sit in front of all night. Combine their chats with the screaming kids at 6am and it’s safe to say not much sleep was occurring in Berlin. This is my main gripe with hostels like Generator & Meininger; they’re just too big-business. I’ve stayed in some Generators with better atmospheres, but for me they always miss the home-grown atmosphere of the independents. I like those that are off the beaten track and communal, not chosen by teachers for their overzealous branding.
That said, the showers were alright and the public transport links were ridiculously close so I shouldn’t complain. It was okay, we were comfortable, I just wouldn’t rush back.
Wait… What Actually Happened?
Well, England were playing in the World Cup on night one, so that was basically required viewing. This resulted in us ending up in a locals-focused German smoking bar full of opposition fans, in which my friend Natalia got yelled at to leave because she didn’t want to drink. Carlsbergs all round then, mostly drunk by me, some thrown over me by Callum (I’m definitely not still bitter about that). On the plus side England won, so we quite rapidly paid the bill and got the hell out of there.
A big highlight for me was Museum Island. There’s an option to buy a ticket for all the museums on the island, but we decided against paying as it was quite expensive, and that would cut into the beer money. Instead we spent a good while just wandering around the area. Some of the buildings there are absolutely stunning, whether that be the museums themselves or the famed Berliner Dom cathedral. We even decided to walk from the island to see the Brandenburg Gate and Reichstag, which in hindsight wasn’t our best decision on one of the hottest days of the trip, but I live to tell the
Out of all of the museums we chose the DDR museum, because I fucking love Cold War era history. It was definitely worthwhile! The place was completely packed with information taking you right from the rise of Hitler to the fall of the Berlin Wall. I particularly loved their mockup of a typical East Berlin apartment during the German Democratic Republic, as well as the interactive exhibits throughout the museum.
You can’t go to Berlin without seeing the iconic symbols that map out 20th century German history, so we made sure to head to Checkpoint Charlie, the East Side Gallery of the Berlin Wall, and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Checkpoint Charlie is very tourist-heavy now, with even a lovely ironic McDonald’s alongside it to cater to all this capitalism. Crossing the road however you’ll find information boards everywhere; plenty more fuel for my Cold War fix.
I love the East Side Gallery so much. It’s the ultimate fuck you. The Berlin Wall was the biggest symbol of division and oppression in the world for 28 years, so to see it transformed into an area of artistic freedom and diversity is just beautiful. To me it represents every value I hold of fighting for a better world for everyone, regardless of anything that may try to divide us.
We also visited the Olympia Stadion which I’m reliably informed is one of the last standing buildings that Hitler commissioned. I had no prior knowledge of this, but it proved yet again to me how much I love a good monument with a bit of past behind it. Also, quick fix for my architecture obsession, so I was very happy.
But Really Are You Eating Tho?
Berlin’s food is INSANE. Like, wow.
My biggest favourites were Vöner and Pizza Peppino. Voner is an all-vegan kebab place, and I don’t think I’ve ever felt more content to eat a kebab whilst sober. Located in the vegetarian/vegan heavy neighbourhood of Ostkreuz, my vegan kebab was cheap, filling and served by very friendly staff. If you’re in Berlin you’d be mad to miss it. Pizza Peppino was a bit more of a random choice, as I can’t for the life of me remember what we were doing by Oranienburger Tor that lunchtime. That said, it was another cheap choice, and made sure everyone was full-enough to be satisfied by our train picnic dinner.
Special shoutout to Prater Garten for being the cutest beer garden I’ve ever drunk in – it’s not the cheapest but has such a cool atmosphere!
Other special shoutout to REWE supermarket for providing me with my supply of ricecakes and knockoff hazelnut spread for the week’s breakfasts; you the real MVP.
THAT WAS BERLIN, I’m going to leave it there before I fall asleep at my keyboard.
I wouldn’t think twice about returning. Berlin has a very modern feel to it, with efficient public transport, quirky neighbourhoods and it’s openness to veganism and us LGBTQ+ folks. However, it’s still steeped in history and geopolitics and I love it for that too. Basically, it satisfies my edginess, gayness, vegetarian tendencies, nerdiness and political interests all at the same time. I was one very happy Megan by the time I got on that train to Prague, if a little sad to leave such an amazing city behind.
Stay tuned for the more chaotic stories that are Prague and Budapest 😉
-Megan, listening to the Love Simon soundtrack like an actual piece of gay trash